Sarandë sits on the Albanian Riviera and looks like the Mediterranean coast of 20 years ago. Before the prices caught up with the beauty. Before the crowds. The water is the kind of turquoise that should not be possible this far north, the food is absurdly good value, and the city has a relaxed, unpretentious energy that is hard to find in European beach destinations at this point.
Albania was on my radar for a while before I actually went. When I did go, I understood immediately why it keeps coming up in conversations about Europe's best underrated destinations. This guide is everything I know from having been there and from taking a group of 10 women back.
Getting There
Fly into Tirana International Airport (TIA). Direct flights from London are available with Ryanair, easyJet, and British Airways, typically from around £80 to £130 return depending on how far ahead you book. From Tirana, Sarandë is a 3 to 4 hour drive south. The coastal road is genuinely beautiful. You can also reach Sarandë by ferry from Corfu in about 30 minutes, which is a brilliant option if you are combining the two.
Nigerian passport holders with a valid UK visa or residence permit do not need a visa for Albania. You enter the country simply by presenting your passport and UK residence document at the border. No prior application, no fee.
Ksamil: The Beach You Actually Need to Get To
Ksamil is 17km south of Sarandë and the beaches there are, without exaggeration, among the most beautiful in Europe. Small turquoise coves, several tiny islands offshore that you can swim to or take a short boat trip to, and clear water that sits somewhere between green and blue depending on the light. Sunbed hire is around 500 to 800 Albanian Lekë per day (about £4 to £6). There are water activity operators on the beach for banana boats, jet skis, and glass-bottom boat tours. Go on a weekday if possible.
The Blue Eye
Syri i Kaltër (the Blue Eye) is a natural spring about 25km from Sarandë where intensely blue water bubbles up from an underground source and flows into a river surrounded by thick forest. It is one of the more genuinely extraordinary natural sights I have seen anywhere. The colour is real, not edited. Go early in the morning before the coach tours arrive.
Gjirokastër: The UNESCO Old Town
Gjirokastër is a full-day trip from Sarandë (about an hour each way) and completely worth it. The old town is UNESCO-listed and has the kind of Ottoman architecture, cobblestone lanes, and mountain backdrop that photographers spend years looking for. The Gjirokastër Castle sits at the top of the hill with views across the valley. The bazaar below has excellent souvenir options without the hard sell you encounter in more touristy destinations.
What to Eat
Albanian food is one of the best surprises of the trip. Byrek (a flaky, layered pastry filled with spinach, cheese, or meat), fërgëse (a rich stew of peppers, tomatoes, and soft cheese), tave kosi (baked lamb in yoghurt sauce), and grilled fish caught the same day. Expect to spend £8 to £15 for a full meal including a drink at a good restaurant in Sarandë. At local spots away from the promenade, less.
The nightlife runs along the promenade and concentrates around the main beach clubs. Lost Seaside is the one everyone talks about and it earns it. The atmosphere on a Friday night in Sarandë in September is something worth showing up for.